How to build a paper model
If this is your first build, read this once before you print. It covers the tools, the printer settings that trip people up, and the order to do things in.
What you need
- Cardstock160 to 230 gsm. A4 or Letter, whichever your printer takes.
- Craft knifeA sharp blade beats scissors on small parts and inside corners.
- Metal rulerFor straight cuts and for scoring. Plastic rulers get shaved by the blade.
- Cutting matSaves your table and keeps the blade sharp for longer.
- Scoring toolA bone folder, an empty ballpoint pen or the back of a butter knife.
- GlueWhite PVA glue holds best. A glue stick is fine for simple models.
Most problems with a build start at the printer, so it is worth a minute to check the settings.
- 1.1Paper sizeTemplates are laid out for A4 (210 x 297 mm). Letter (8.5 x 11 in) works for most models too. Check the print preview to make sure no part runs off the edge.
- 1.2Paper weightUse 160 to 230 gsm cardstock. Office paper is too soft to hold a shape, and much heavier stock cracks when you fold it.
- 1.3ScalePrint at 100%, sometimes called "actual size". Turn off "fit to page" and "shrink to fit", or the parts will not line up.
- 1.4QualityPick the best quality setting your printer has and turn off any draft or ink saving mode. Thin lines are easier to follow when they are crisp.
- 1.5Double sided templatesIf a template has back pages, print double sided and flip on the long edge. Run one test page first to check the two sides line up.
Cut
Solid lines are cut lines. Take your time here, because clean edges are what make a finished model look sharp.
- 2.1Use a sharp bladeCut with a craft knife against a metal ruler, on a cutting mat. Swap the blade as soon as it starts to drag or tear the paper.
- 2.2Small parts firstCut inside corners and small details before you free the part from the sheet. A full sheet is much easier to hold still.
- 2.3Keep parts in orderLay the parts out in the order you cut them. If a part number gets trimmed off, pencil it on the back.
Score and fold
Dashed lines are fold lines. Scoring them first is the difference between a crisp edge and a lumpy one.
- 3.1Score before you foldRun a bone folder or an empty ballpoint pen along each dashed line with a ruler. You want to dent the paper. Never cut through it.
- 3.2Fold everything onceFold every line on a part before you glue anything. It is far easier while the part is still flat in your hands.
Glue
The last step is the slowest to learn and the most satisfying to get right.
- 4.1Less glue than you thinkSpread a thin layer on the tab with a toothpick or a scrap of card. Too much glue warps the paper and squeezes out of the seam.
- 4.2One tab at a timePress each joint and hold it for 10 to 15 seconds before you move to the next one.
- 4.3Build in sectionsPut together the small sections first, let them dry, then join them. Close the model up with the largest, easiest to reach seam.
Or skip straight to the fun part.
Cutting is the slowest part of any build. A Sticksy kit arrives with every piece cut out and every fold scored, along with instructions that walk you through the assembly.
- 01
Precut pieces
Every part is cut out before it ships, down to the small inside corners.
- 02
Prescored folds
Fold lines are already scored, so edges come out straight on the first try.
- 03
Step by step instructions
A build guide written for that exact model, in the order that works.
- 04
Cardstock included
Printed on the right weight of paper, so there is nothing to buy or test.